Protecting the Mediterranean Diet
The Mediterranean Diet is still regarded as one of the healthiest in the world, and as a Public Health Nutritionist, I find it the most exciting, too! It’s a vibrant mix of fresh produce, whole grains, nuts, pulses, natural sweeteners and loads of herbs. While many people think of Spain, Italy, France and Greece when they hear ‘Mediterranean’, I also think of the Eastern Mediterranean and North Africa, often referred to as the Middle East. I’m now a regular user of za’atr, tahini and recently purchased Tunisian harissa which made me very happy. As you move east, the diet expands to include spices, fermented foods and countless preparation methods that enhance nutritional value. For me, much of my excitement about food comes from this region of the world.
What makes the Mediterranean Diet so special isn’t just the food itself — it’s the culture surrounding it. It’s about sitting down with family and friends, sharing a meal and the care and effort that go into growing and preparing food. Embracing the Mediterranean Diet (along with other global cuisines) inspires me to spend more time in the kitchen. We even used to host a ‘Learn to Cook the Mediterranean Diet’ class when the Food School was open.
In my home city of Birmingham, I have friends from all over the world, and some of my most memorable meals have been those from the Med. There’s my Greek Cypriot friend who, every summer, transforms his backyard into a proper taverna, serving traditional Greek dishes to raise money for charity. I’m equally inspired by my Palestinian friend, who makes the most incredible chickpea falafel burgers stuffed with a dollop of goat cheese and caramelized onions, served with muhammara, a dip made from roasted red peppers, walnuts and pomegranate molasses. On special occasions, her family makes an early morning trip to the market to gather vibrant Mediterranean vegetables and big bunches of herbs, which she spends hours carefully washing and drying to prepare a mouth-watering dish of stuffed vegetables in a rich tomato sauce.
It may sound like a cliché, but when you share a meal with people from the Mediterranean, you’re not just eating food — you’re being showered with love.
Earlier this year, I had the opportunity to spend time in Greece and Madeira. Thessaloniki and Funchal (the capital of Madeira) are both part of the Horizon 2020 Food Trails project, which I’m involved in as the Cross-Cutting Manager for Nutrition. Thessaloniki is Greece’s first UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy. The home of spanakopita. I enjoyed a slice of pumpkin spanakopita in an urban vineyard.
In Funchal colleagues describe their diet as ‘Atlantic Mediterranean.’ Here I discovered banana can be served with fish. Here colleagues are developing educational initiatives to raise awareness of the nutrition benefits of pulses.
I had unforgettable food experiences in both places, as well as during a week in Crete, which I visited in between. Both regions boast traditional diets rich in fish, fresh produce and all the staples of the Mediterranean Diet. However, like many parts of the world, they’re also seeing changes in how people eat.
The Changing Food Landscape
In 2023, UNICEF launched the ‘National Action Against Childhood Obesity in Greece,’ a two-year, £36 million project in partnership with the Ministry of Health. This project focuses on a ‘whole school and community’ approach to tackling childhood obesity, with support from nutritionists and paediatricians for children already dealing with conditions like diabetes and other diet-related health issues. I cannot wait to see the results.
While the Mediterranean Diet is often celebrated for its health benefits, researchers don’t always focus on why Mediterranean countries themselves are experiencing a shift away from it. Why is this dietary transition happening? For those of us working in this area, we have some ideas: urbanisation, growing inequality, the popularity of convenience foods, the impact of tourism, busy lifestyles and the rising cost of healthy food. In other words, the same factors influencing food choices worldwide.
However, what we really need to explore is how quickly this transition is happening and how it’s impacting Mediterranean culture itself. How is urbanisation disrupting traditional diets and ways of life? Are schools ad communities moving away from serving traditional foods? How much influence does tourism have on local food environments? Is the Mediterranean Diet becoming more of a ‘fantasy diet’ for health professionals - something that only those with time and money can follow, even for people living in Mediterranean regions?
My Recommendations for Cities
In my presentations, I always stress the importance of cities conducting a nutrition situational analysis. It’s essential to not only gather statistics on the diet-related health status of the population but also to engage with communities and understand their challenges. In some countries, the Global Diet Quality Project is making it easier for us to understand what the population is currently eating. What would be really useful is to collect this data at the subnational or city level to figure out how best to support people. The recommendations I make in my reports include:
Conduct a nutrition situational analysis to identify barriers to healthy eating, especially among vulnerable groups.
Collect data on dietary habits of different population segments, focusing on low-income families, the elderly, newly arrived migrants and other marginalised groups.
Collaborate with local health organisations or universities to conduct surveys or nutrition assessments.
Analyse access to healthy food in neighbourhoods, considering proximity to markets, food (quality) deserts and affordability.
Assess citizens' understanding of what a ‘healthy diet’ means. This includes Food-Based Dietary Guidelines (FBDGs) and the Planetary Health Diet. I
Hold focus groups or community surveys to understand how much people know about healthy eating and sustainable diets.
Host public forums or workshops to gather ideas on how the city can promote healthier food habits.
Create interactive platforms or mobile apps where people can give feedback on food policy initiatives and share their own suggestions.
Of course, cities need help on doing all of the above and this is what we hope the Food Trails project will lead to - additional support for progressing sustainable food policies.
Preserving Mediterranean Food Culture
For me, the food traditions and cultures of the Mediterranean are among the most incredible and exciting in the world. We should be thinking about how we can protect and preserve these traditions for future generations, especially as modern life continues to shift the way we eat. The Mediterranean Diet isn’t just about health; it’s about history, culture, and a way of life that I’d like to see cherished. I guess once can say that about many traditional food cultures.