A Perspective on Food Equity in Mexico City
I'm thrilled to be back in Mexico City. It's become a magnet for North Americans seeking vibrant living experiences. Glossy European magazines often spotlight La Condesa and Roma as the trendsetting neighbourhoods. Tourists eagerly queue up for croissants, while locals voice legitimate concerns about gentrification — young Americans flocking here for its affordability, driving up prices and reshaping the socio-economic landscape. Local resentment is fuelled by the opinion that newcomers not contributing to the local tax base further strain resources and exacerbate inequality. Despite this, individuals have made clear to me that they don't object to 'foreigners' or migrants.
Last year, a young couple asked to film me for a segment, questioning whether Mexico City was as cheap as rumoured. My response? Not quite. While there's affordable street food and bustling markets, a 'like-for-like' comparison often reveals prices on par, if not slightly higher, than those back home in the UK. The cost of living, particularly in terms of food and drink, is notable. A simple cup of coffee can set you back £3.00, similar to ‘hipster’ coffee shops back home. Surprisingly, other expenses, like books, also come at a premium. I visited Daunt in Oxford to pick up a selection of books written by Mexican authors for this trip and discovered that if I bought them here, they would be 3 – 4 times the price. This discrepancy raises broader discussions about access to literature and cultural capital, Topics I’d love to read about in a literary blog.
As a Public Health Nutritionist, I can't help but wonder about the broader implications of these disparities on the population's health. My friends here tell me that there are cheaper supermarkets and markets than the ones I go to, but there are also more expensive ones. Despite the apparent wealth in the city, it's worth noting that the population employed in CDMX in the fourth quarter of 2023 was 4.66 million people, with an average monthly salary of Mx$4.98K, approximately £234.85. The daily commute for many workers can span 2-3 hours, underscoring the challenges faced by residents in navigating the city's vastness.
This reality likely contributes to the growing resentment towards gentrification. However, underlying issues of inequality and systemic racism also play a significant role in shaping the city's dynamics. As one friend shared with me, there's a pervasive belief amongst white Mexicans that they are superior to other Mexicans, leading to systemic discrimination. This sentiment is reflected even in the current elections, where POC candidates are notably absent.
Understanding drivers of inequality is important to public health nutritionists because we are aware that there is a close relationship between inequality and diet-related disease. In Mexico, non-communicable diseases (NCDs) account for a staggering 80% of deaths, with unhealthy diets identified as one of the primary lifestyle risks contributing to 11.3% of total deaths. The Government has taken action by implementing a soda tax and front-of-pack labelling. One state, Oaxaca, even banned selling junk food to children. The Mexican public is generally in support of policies that enable healthier food choices rather than restrict unhealthy food choices such as subsidising fruit and vegetables.
As I flew to Mexico, a new law was introduced to enshrine the right to nutritious, sufficient and quality food. The ‘General Law on Adequate and Sustainable Nutrition’ is a big step towards creating a healthier and more sustainable food system. The law recognises the right to food and focuses on key issues like improving health, protecting the environment, fair food access and the water crisis. Crucially, it also includes safeguards to prevent large food companies from having too much influence.
Yet, the power of foreign direct investment (FDI), from companies like Coca-Cola, continues to shape dietary habits and challenge public health efforts. These corporations wield immense power and influence over consumer choices, significantly impacting public health. A notable example occurred during last year's drought when the President requested Coca-Cola and Heineken to halt production to conserve water reserves. If companies can defy presidential directives, it raises questions about the effectiveness of public policy in regulating corporate behaviour.
Let’s end with a couple of positive stories which relate to governments and civil society organisations really working hard to ensure everyone can gain access to nutritious food. Mexico City received the Milan Pact Award for their Community Canteens and other food security programmes that led to a reduction in food insecurity in Mexico City from 15.6% in 2010 to 5.6% in 2015. A case study highlighted that the presence of a dining room in an area of the city reduces the incidence of hunger by 30%. I include these canteens as an example in an article for Food Trails titled Nourishing Change: Transforming Food Systems for Health Equity and Nutrition.
Another article in the Guardian also highlighted the importance of rural-urban connections to preserve communities and traditional diets. Last year we visited Yucatan and despite the beauty, it’s clear that mass tourism is having an impact on local culture. A couple established a regenerative farm, revitalising indigenous agricultural practices in a Mayan community which had gradually drifted from traditional food production methods towards a processed diet. They also created an economic opportunity for the community by selling food to restaurants in Cancun. The positive result is that some individuals are choosing to stay on the land to farm.
So, reflecting on the above, makes me realise that a systems approach is important but also complex. We need to understand drivers of inequality, economic (and corporate) barriers to change as well as economic opportunities. We also need to work hard to ensure that people are aware of why their food environment is the way it is (moving away from personal responsibility) and the importance of citizen engagement in driving food system transformation.
References
Quevedo, K.L., Jáuregui, A., Nieto, C., Ortiz-Panozo, E., Contreras-Manzano, A., Barquera, S., Vanderlee, L., White, C.M., & Hammond, D. (2023). Public support for food policies in Mexican adults: Findings from the International Food Policy Study, 2017–2021. Preventive Medicine, 175, 107710.
Data México. (n.d.). Ciudad de México - Data México. Retrieved May 6, 2024, from https://www.economia.gob.mx/datamexico/en/profile/geo/ciudad-de-mexico-cx
The Guardian. (2022, July 28). ‘It’s plunder’: Mexico desperate for water while drinks companies use billions of litres. Retrieved May 6, 2024, from https://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2022/jul/28/water-is-the-real-thing-but-millions-of-mexicans-are-struggling-without-it
The Guardian. (2023, July 10). Three sisters and 120 sweet potatoes: Mexican farmers embrace Maya traditions. Retrieved May 6, 2024, from https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2023/jul/10/three-sisters-and-120-sweet-potatoes-mexico-farmers-embrace-maya-traditions-aoe