Shaping Future Food Culture
A Path to Inclusive Urban Food Systems
For those of us deeply committed to addressing dietary inequalities, the collaboration with city authorities presents a unique chance to influence the trajectory of our urban food systems. As our cities rapidly evolve, the projects and initiatives that ignite our passion may unintentionally contribute to gentrification and the marginalisation of certain communities when it comes to food. How can we ensure that food-related policies and practices resonate with everyone, not just those who adore avocado and hummus? The following was written ahead of a talk delivered at Terra Madre in Turin in October 2022.
Introduction
I hail from Birmingham, a city in England, where I was born, raised, and continue to reside. As a public health nutritionist, cooking school owner, and restaurant proprietor, I'm here today to share my observations about the evolving food culture in my city, alongside the transformations I've witnessed in cities worldwide. Following my talk, I invite you to introduce yourself, discuss your role, share your observations about food culture in your city, and illuminate your aspirations for shaping its future.
Our Cities
In an article titled "Our Cities Will Be Reborn Young, Fearless, and Independent," Professor Edward Glasser, an expert in cities' role in transmitting ideas, remarked that my city, Birmingham, seemed to begin its second lockdown early because it appeared to be having too much fun. In 2018, Birmingham ranked as the fifth most attractive city in Europe, according to Colliers International's "Cities of Influence" report. It was noted that more people were leaving London for Birmingham than for any other city, and those who left Birmingham generally remained in the West Midlands conurbation.
Major infrastructure developments, such as HS2 and Paradise Circus, are underway, and the city received praise for its preparations for the 2022 Commonwealth Games.
The Challenge
Despite these achievements, Birmingham is a "city of two halves." It is a place of struggle for many, particularly migrant communities that arrived in the 1950s and 1960s from the Caribbean and the Indian subcontinent. Often, we are cited as "lagging behind" in terms of health, education, and employment status. Our communities have also been disproportionately affected by the pandemic, as highlighted in Public Health England's 2020 report on "Disparities in the Risk and Outcomes of COVID-19."
The reason it's crucial to underscore these disparities is that by 2025, Birmingham is projected to become a "majority-minority city." Minority groups already account for 40% of the population. Additionally, there are lower-income communities not benefiting from the city's economic growth, putting them at risk of dietary and health disparities.
Food Insecurity
The city continues to grapple with food insecurity, a problem exacerbated during the COVID-19 pandemic. In a city with nearly 1.2 million residents, the NHS identified 23,000 people as clinically vulnerable, and Birmingham City Council reported delivering emergency food boxes to 7,365 individuals. Furthermore, they commissioned FareShare, a food surplus charity, to procure food for delivery to nearly 20,000 people in need.
This aid reached Birmingham's most vulnerable communities through the Food Justice Network. The need for food aid continues to rise, and, like many European cities, Birmingham is now addressing this need beyond the crisis phase. A significant challenge lies in transitioning from "project food aid" to providing sustained, long-term support for families who may never fully recover from the crisis without city-led intervention.
Research
Birmingham is participating in two major research projects, both aimed at understanding the scalability of innovative ideas and their potential to bring about systemic change. The Horizon 2020 Food Trails project establishes a "living lab" of food system thinkers, funding food system pilot projects aligned with the EU's Food 2030 agenda pillars: nutrition, circularity, innovation, and sustainability.
The UKRI-funded MANDALA project, led by Cambridge University, seeks to transform Birmingham's food system and its relationship with the West Midlands regional economy. Local food system mapping will identify the most potent levers for systemic change, which may include new procurement methods for healthier and more sustainable public sector foods and online systems to facilitate businesses' use of locally grown produce. These interventions will be evaluated to demonstrate how food can be made healthier, more affordable for citizens, less harmful to the environment, and still profitable for producers and retailers. These elements form the foundation of Birmingham's new "regenerative food strategy."
Gentrification
In the midst of Birmingham's rapid development, not everyone seems to be reaping the benefits. Experts report that "gentrification" is displacing established, low-income communities, exacerbating inequality—a trend witnessed in cities like Brixton and Brooklyn.
Birmingham, unlike London and New York, has not attracted the super-wealthy. The North-South divide in England, which prompted the previous government's "levelling-up" strategy, is partially responsible for this disparity. As a result, Birmingham hasn't experienced the kind of gentrification seen in larger cities. A store like Whole Foods, for example, would face challenges surviving in Birmingham's poshest areas, and smaller boutique food businesses struggle to thrive.
Positive Food Trends
Despite the growth of cheaper supermarkets, there has been an upsurge in East Asian and South Asian supermarkets, Middle Eastern restaurants, dessert shops, and traditional English pubs incorporating "desi grills." Diverse areas boast vibrant high streets that are a testament to the entrepreneurial spirit of migrant communities. The city center is a hub for dining and entertainment, as noted by our Harvard Professor.
Deprivation
However, a cultural divide persists within the city. On the outskirts of housing estates served by new supermarkets, high-rises stand alongside small convenience stores with limited goods and a narrow selection of fresh produce. The lowest-income communities do not seem to be benefiting from the concept of the "15-minute city" championed by forward-thinking urban planners.
In England, food deserts refer to areas with limited nutritional diversity rather than a complete absence of food. Cheap, convenient, ultra-processed foods are increasingly accessible, especially in lower-income communities. Moreover, deprivation's stark reality is evolving at an unprecedented pace. Recent reports highlight that guns have become a part of the daily experience for children in a secondary school in one of the city's most deprived inner-city wards. I've also met a learning assistant whose role includes preventing children from joining gangs and supporting those who are already involved.
The Opportunity
Birmingham City Council committed to the MUFPP in 2015 and gained political support for developing a healthier, sustainable food policy in 2017. Four years later, a "Food Policy Team" was formed, and the draft Food Strategy, crafted by the Food Team lead, has recently undergone public review. Birmingham's "regenerative food strategy" seeks to revitalise the community, the physical environment, and the economy.
To begin, the Food Team engaged community stakeholders and allies who are already addressing food insecurity, dietary disparities, and sustainability. Some examples include:
The Food Trails’ team which is transforming a car park into an urban agriculture project aligned with a food waste collection project in a neighbouring estate.
The Food Justice Network comprising around 200 organisations that provide food aid directly to vulnerable communities, along with community cafes and holiday hunger programs.
Places of worship, including Gurdwaras and Mosques, which continue to serve food to the homeless in the city centre.
A charity raising funds for a housing co-operative that includes a kitchen garden, café, and bakery.
A charity commissioned to conduct a feasibility study for a social supermarket, offering a diverse range of fresh produce, cooking classes, and nutrition advice - a concept aimed at those displaced by gentrification.
A university connecting Bangladeshi food businesses with local farmers, offering sustainability training for businesses.
A vegetarian school employing a highly talented chef who prepares nutritious food for children and offers veg boxes with recipes to parents at cost.
A zero-packaging food business that has also opened the first zero-packaging/plastic bar.
A major fresh produce supplier with a £350 million turnover committed to supporting lower-income communities in the UK and creating opportunities for exporters in developing countries.
Additionally, the Food Team has commissioned research into the learning needs of food businesses in the city's East, a region undergoing significant regeneration due to an infrastructure project. Research is also underway to determine the suitability of tools like the eatwell guide in helping diverse communities make healthier food choices. The regenerative food strategy drew insights from seldom-heard focus groups and other consultations on food.
Learning from other cities
The city has benefited from international networks such as MUFPP, EUORICITES, and more recently, Commonwealth cities. These platforms provide valuable opportunities to share best practices from around the world and secure political and leadership commitment.
We learn as much from developing countries as we do from developed ones. For example, Pune in India is introducing organic farmers' markets across the city, including very low-income areas. Windhoek in Namibia and Durban in South Africa are training thousands of households to grow their own food, regardless of property size. Similar projects in Jamaica protect young people from engaging in gang-related activity while providing nourishing food for communities.
What's Next?
The food strategy focuses on nine themes:
Food production.
Food sourcing.
Food transformation.
Food waste and recycling.
Food economy & employment.
Food behaviour change.
Food security and resilience.
Food skills and knowledge.
Food innovation/partnerships and research.
Working groups will be established to support each theme's delivery. Implementation will depend on the enthusiasm and commitment of individuals, businesses, communities, and organisations like those mentioned earlier. These groups will also include policymakers, academics, researchers, and investors. The aim is to create a movement that will shape the city's future food culture, prioritizing the health of our citizens and the planet. Forums like Terra Madre encourage us to contemplate potential solutions, and together, we hope to transform our city's food environments to ensure that everyone has access to nutritious, ethical, and sustainable food. We have eight years to make a difference.