Exploring Food Justice in San Francisco and New York City
I'm currently wrapping up a 10-day trip to San Francisco and New York City, revisiting the places that once captivated me in my twenties and thirties, but with a new purpose this time. Over a decade and a half later, I find myself in these vibrant cities with my sister, a Berlin-based cultural anthropologist and food entrepreneur, on a mission to explore food justice projects. Our journey is on behalf of a UK-based charity that's seeking innovative alternatives to food banks.
Our adventure began in San Francisco, where we unintentionally booked a hotel in the Tenderloin district, a stark reminder of the city's ongoing fentanyl crisis. Despite being one of the world's wealthiest cities, the levels of poverty and addiction we encountered were startling. This experience served as a poignant backdrop for our exploration of initiatives aiming to address food justice.
One of our first stops was La Cocina, a programme that deeply resonated with our discussions about supporting migrant communities in Birmingham. La Cocina offers sustained support to new migrant-led food businesses, emphasising long-term training and access to essential resources. Their model, which includes access to cooking facilities and prime spots at farmers' markets, provides a blueprint for nurturing culinary entrepreneurship.
During our journey, we had the privilege of meeting Shakira Simley, a passionate food justice activist who serves as the driving force behind the Booker T Washington community centre—a multifaceted housing and community hub. At this centre, they've launched the 'Service to Soul' Food Justice programme, a remarkable initiative aimed at empowering Black and African American communities by ensuring access to nutritious, cooked meals and organic fresh produce sourced from local black-owned and black-led farms in Northern California. What sets this programme apart is its commitment to African-Native America indigenous permaculture principles, deeply rooted in sustainable growing techniques.
Shakira's leadership and dedication are nothing short of inspirational, making her a true change maker in the realm of food justice. We are excited about the potential collaboration with her on a global scale, as we seek to engage her expertise in shaping city food policies that prioritise equity and inclusivity.
During our time in New York, we had the privilege of meeting Professor Krishnedu Ray, a dedicated academic who specialises in the vital role of migrants in shaping and evolving food systems. Our meeting with Professor Ray shed light on an often-overlooked aspect of food policy – the essential contributions of migrants. While our own city has a rich history of diverse migrant communities that have significantly influenced our food culture, this critical topic often struggles to gain the prominence it deserves in food policy discussions. Professor Ray's insights and research highlight the profound impact that migrant communities have on the foods we eat, the culinary traditions we cherish, and the dynamic nature of our food systems.
Our journey also led us to the Park Slope Co-op, a globally renowned example that piqued our interest due to its relevance to our client’s interest in Social Supermarkets. This cooperative, serving a gentrified area of Brooklyn, allows members to access affordable produce in exchange for their labour. While inspiring, it underscored the challenges of replicating such models in low-income areas, emphasising the importance of community involvement and careful planning.
We are committed to using the valuable insights we have gathered during our travels, including this trip, to produce a comprehensive report on the nature of social supermarkets in Europe and elsewhere. This report will serve as a valuable resource for the charity we are working with, guiding their efforts to create sustainable and equitable food systems that benefit the community they serve. Our goal is to ensure that no one is left behind in the journey towards a more just and inclusive food future.